DIY Dyeing with Hibiscus Flowers

Turn your garden blossoms into a beautiful and all-natural fabric dye

There’s something magical about turning petals into pigment. Something I love in particular about using flowers as a fabric dye is the multi-purposing aspect that lets your flowers’ legacy live on.

I’ve always been curious about natural dyeing but never carved out the time. This summer, though, my hibiscus plant was basically begging me with its vibrant red blooms. If you’ve ever wondered how to make your own natural dye, hibiscus is one of the easiest and most rewarding plants to start with — and I’m here to share from my experience and how you can do it on your own too.

A Little History

Natural dyeing is an ancient art that dates back thousands of years. Long before synthetic dyes existed, people used plants, roots, barks, and flowers to color their clothing and textiles.

Hibiscus, in particular, has been used across tropical regions for its rich red hues — often symbolizing passion, vitality, and life. While I chose hibiscus because it was growing in my garden, you can experiment with so many other flowers and botanicals too. 

Hibiscus flowers give a rosy pink to deep wine-red (almost purple-like) hues to the fabric – each plant brings its own story and shade.

Some I’ve heard of (and can’t wait to test for myself) include:

• Marigold – warm golden yellow

• Calendula – soft peach or honey tones

• Lavender – gentle gray-lavender hues

• Rose petals – dusty pinks and mauves

• Coreopsis – orange-gold tones

• Butterfly pea flower – cool blue

• Dandelion – light yellow

  
  

And here’s a fun one — even black beans can create a soft blue-gray dye!

Today, natural dyeing has made a beautiful comeback as more of us turn toward sustainable, mindful living — and it serves as a reminder that the human desire for beauty and nature have always been intertwined.

How to Dye Fabric With Hibiscus

You’ll need:

• New or old hibiscus petals

• A large pot

• Strainer or cheesecloth

• Water

• Natural fabric (cotton, linen, or silk work best)

• Tongs or gloves

  
  

Steps:

1. Harvest petals – Gather hibiscus blossoms (new or old), and remove stems and leaves. It’s the petals that hold the color.

   
   

2. Simmer – Place petals in a pot with enough water to cover them. Simmer gently for 30–60 minutes, until the water turns a deep red-purple.

   
   

3. Cool and squeeze – Let the mixture cool slightly, then squeeze the softened petals to release as much pigment as possible.

   
   

4. Strain – Remove the petals. You can use the liquid right away or refrigerate it for later.

   
   

5. Prepare your fabric – Wet the fabric first so it absorbs evenly.

   
   

6. Dye – Submerge your fabric in the hibiscus dye bath. For lighter tones, soak for about 1 hour. For deeper shades, leave it overnight.

   
   

7. Rinse and dry – Once you’ve reached your desired color, rinse thoroughly and air dry. Every piece will come out unique — that’s the joy of working with natural materials.

Tips for Best Results

• Use natural fibers — cotton, linen, and silk absorb color best.

• Optional to add a splash of vinegar or salt to help set the color.

• Keep your dye bath warm for richer tones.

• Sunlight can fade natural dyes over time, so dry and store your piece in the shade.

• The color will soften slightly after washing — embrace the evolution.

• Colors will vary depending on how long you let your fabric soak in the natural dye.

  
  

Final Results

The finished scarf turned the most beautiful rose-purple. Soft. Natural. And truly one of a kind. What I love most is that it doesn’t just carry color; it carries memory. Every thread reminds me of the hibiscus growing in my garden and the quiet joy of creating something by hand.

Natural dyeing invites us to slow down, to experiment, and to reconnect with the creativity of the earth itself.

Safety & Care

Natural dyes are gentle but not always permanent — wash your piece separately the first few times, and use mild soap to preserve the color.

Disclaimer: Always test dyes on a small fabric swatch first, as results can vary depending on fabric type and water pH.

— Lila

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